Further, my recommendation is that flushing with water is unnecessary if the drained coolant does not have sediment within. If you open up all three drains: radiator, engine block, and coolant heat recovery storage (CHRS) tank - then you will have done a comprehensive job and should not have to worry about residual fluid in the system. However, as we've discussed, the disadvantage of using distilled water for flushing is that you will end up diluting the final SLLC coolant added to the system. His reason for suggesting that was to reduce the chance of introducing air into the system. He further suggested flushing the system with distilled water. If you are still inclined to DIY, you may decide to forego draining the coolant heat storage tank however this will result in keeping ~30% of the old coolant in the combined system.Įd's suggestion was just to drain the radiator and leave the engine block and coolant heat recovery storage tank drains untouched. If you need more tech info after reading that, go to and download relevant repair manual pages for your model year. I also suggest that you download and study the Hybrid12 Engine Control System.pdf file that can be found at Automotive Training and Resource Site, especially pages 2-4 to 2-7. This has the correct pink color and is ~$20 per gallon. I suggest that you use Toyota Super Long Life Coolant which is premixed with distilled water. You will also need to replace the rubber O-ring that seals the thermostat housing. Since your car has 80K miles, this is a good idea. When refilling, one challenge will be to run that coolant pump so that the tank can be filled and air can be purged out of that system.ģ. Further, the coolant heat storage tank (which contains hot coolant) can also be drained, and the associated coolant pump should be disconnected during this process so that you don't have an accident. The engine block also has a drain cock on the side that faces the rear of the vehicle. Under no circumstances should you risk using a 2-EHA based antifreeze with it's known gasket compatibility issues in your Prius - which rules out DexCool and Preston long life any color any make coolant.Ĭlick to expand.1. The only place to get a Japanese style longlife antifreeze is the dealer, and given how hard it is to remove all the old antifreeze from the Prius, I would recommend staying with the Toyota "pink" longlife antifreeze when your Prius hits the 100,000 mile mark. Only the Japanese make a HOAT based longlife antifreeze with no silicates, no 2-EHA, no amines and low phosphates (the Japanese have long used phosphates). GM's DexCool has no silicates and no phosphates but has the dreaded 2-EHA that everyone else hates. The longlife HOAT technology variations that everybody besides GM went to contains silicates and no phosphates (European makers do not like phospahtes) - Ford's G-05 is an example. I would not worry about until the 100,000 mile mark. So, at 80,000 miles you still have 20,000 miles of life left in your antifreeze. The Toyota Pink is good for 100,000 miles/10 years and 50,000 miles/5 years afer that. Toyota switched to a long life antifreeze using a Hybrid Organic Acid Technology, and like all Japanese manufacterers they use no silicates and they do use phosphates. BTW, Preston long life any color any make uses 2-EHA. So nobody but GM (and Saab, IIRC) uses coolant with 2-EHA in it. There was one problem - DexCool can weaken certain rubber and plastic gaskets/hoses/parts due to one of the major ingredients (2-ethylhexanoic acid known as 2-EHA ). GM's version, brand name DexCool can last 5 years/150,000 miles. In order to get a longer life, GM lead the way to longer service life with Organic Acid Technology (OAT) antifreeze. When it was let go longer, as many consumers did, bad things could and did happen. It did have one major drawback - a 30,000 mile 2 year service length. It was great stuff and offered very good corrosion protection. In the old days coolant was based on Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) for corrosion protection.
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